Vintage Costume Jewelry: Yesterday's Fashion Today

Jewelry, whether fine or costume, has been a part of human culture since the earliest times. People wear jewelry to satisfy their vanity, to indulge their love for beautiful things, and to look good to others. Vintage costume jewelry fulfills all these criteria, but at a fraction of the cost of real or fine jewelry. It is an inexpensive alternative that does not sacrifice taste as well as style.

Vintage costume jewelry may be less expensive, but good quality ones are never seen as cheap. They are less costly because they are not made from precious gems. Designers of vintage costume jewelry use a variety of materials from cut glass, beads, semi-precious gems, faux gems -- even plastic! These pieces were created and released since the start of the Victorian era up to the 1960s. Vintage costume jewelry from the 1940s and 1950s are especially creative and eye-catching, since the designers of the era had to produce relatively inexpensive yet fashionable items that men and women could afford and appreciate during the war and post-war era.

Some of the most popular designers of vintage costume jewelry were fashion guru Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and Miriam Haskell. Many of Schiaparelli's bright and attractive creations were made from multi-colored rhinestones. Haskell, in her finely detailed work, almost always paid tribute to nature's beauty and bounty. Chanel, the favorite of many celebrities, transformed the way costume jewelry was worn in the 1920s. Other pieces of vintage costume jewelry were made from materials that included beads, corals, faux pearls, and Bakelite -- a kind of polymeric plastic.

Vintage costume jewelry continues to be very much in vogue today, and it has inspired many designers to create 'real' pieces made from precious gems and metals. At the 2005 Academy Awards, the jewelry that many women celebrities wore were oversized and sparkly, a tribute to the jewelry designs of the 1940s. Stars such as Madonna, Britney Spears, and Julia Roberts are not only collectors of vintage costume jewelry and dress accessories; they actually wear them in public, too.

A person does not have to be a celebrity to appreciate vintage costume jewelry. Their uniqueness, aesthetic value and superb craftsmanship make them popular collectible items, and with proper care, they can be a good investment, too, since serious collectors will pay top dollar for vintage costume jewelry that is in mint condition. But more than that, the experience of owning and wearing a thing of beauty that comes from a bygone era is simply priceless.

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Beyond Gold and Platinum: Mokume Gane

In many ways the "ultimate" noble metal that one might consider for jewelry isn't gold or platinum but their slightly tan colored cousin iridium. With the possible exception of osmium (which is smelly and toxic) it's the rarest non-radioactive element in the earth's crust -- several times more so than either gold or platinum. It's even more chemically incorruptible than the other two, it's heavier (17% denser than gold and 6% denser than platinum), and it's much more scratch-resistant. There's also the additional mystique that most if not all of the iridium we mine comes from meteorite impacts and is therefore extraterrestrial. Unfortunately no one has come up with a way to work with it economically, mainly due to its absurdly high melting point and its glassy brittleness. The first artisan to tame iridium will surely take the world by the tail.

But in the meantime there's a metalworking specialty that's just as interesting if not more so called mokume gane (mo-KOO-may GAH-nay) which involves bonding as many as thirty alternating layers of differently colored metals; twisting, stretching, or otherwise heavily deforming the resulting mass; and then carving it into rings and such that display a riotously swirling agate- or woodgrain-like surface. Japanese metalworker Denbei Shoami (1651-1728) invented mokume gane to make ornamental handles for samurai swords. Metals used include silver; gold and differing hues of it such as rose, white, and green; shakudo (an alloy of 96% copper and 4% gold that develops a blue-black patina); kuromi-do (copper with a smidgen of arsenic); shibuichi (a pink copper/silver alloy); and various alloys of titanium and tungsten that can involve iron, nickel and molybdenum. They sandwich these layers and heat them to a temperature, which chemists call a eutectic, that's hot enough to cause the atoms to jostle and intermingle at the layer boundaries yet not so great as to melt the stack into an undifferentiated blob.

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Fine Jewelry

Looking good is a basic human tendency. However, the amount of money that one would like to spend on looking good varies from one person to another and is subject to many factors. Our sense of style and taste is one of the vital factors that determines what we buy. If you are one of those who do not compromise on your accessories because of the cost involved, then you are bound to possess an enviable collection of "fine" jewelry.

Which jewelry, some of you may ask, can be categorized as "fine" jewelry? A bangle made out of brass may look just as "fine" to you as one made out of gold. Plainly speaking, fine jewelry may be defined as jewelry made out of precious metals such as gold or silver and set with precious or semi-precious stones. However, this is neither a final definition nor an absolute one. It conveniently leaves out the finest jewelry of all times, platinum jewelry. Also, it is not always necessary that the precious metal should be set with diamonds or other stones to be able to qualify as "fine" jewelry.

Any jewelry that is precious and is made out of metals or stones that we consider precious and expensive falls into the category of "fine jewelry". The finest gold, silver, platinum and diamonds are chosen to be used in the crafting of fine jewelry. Designed specially for the discriminating eye, fine jewelry is available in exclusive designs and is immaculately crafted. Bridal jewelry, wedding bands and diamond rings set in gold or platinum are all specimens of fine jewelry that are designed with immense articulation and an eye for detail. Fine jewelry is like an heirloom, a work of timeless ethereal perfection, which stays in bloom for all times to come.

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Knowing Your Antique & Vintage Jewelry

To wear and enjoy a beautiful piece of antique and vintage jewelry with a history behind can be a wonderful, exhilarating experience. For many it is a lovingly addicting hobby. The more you collect, the more you want to collect! It's that exciting! But when buying these jewels of yesterday, how can one be certain that what they are buying is truly authentic and not relatively new and/or of it's claimed value? It's always advisable to buy from reputable dealers who guarantee their items plus learning what to look for in a piece. Attend Antique & Collectable Shows, browse Antique Shops and read lots of books to familiarize yourself with period styles and their findings.

When looking at a piece, examine it carefully both front and back. An genuinely old piece will have all the ingredients to confirm its authenticity. Many jewelry styles do tend to overlap so always check the entire piece for clues. Is the piece signed, hallmarked? Surprisingly enough a lot of antique jewelry was marked in the most unusual of places so check along the edges, inside of the bale, the pin stem and even on the back of the pin stem! You'll be amazed at what you could find and where you will find it. Suddenly a piece of jewelry that you thought was newer or made of silver plate or gold plate now may be seen in a different light as genuine antique silver or gold and have a lot of value!

A lot of old jewelry such as Victorian Jewelry was not marked. So now what? A Victorian brooch with a long pin stem extending outward is a good indication that it's early Victorian while a shorter one is of a later date. The "C" clasp is another indication that the piece is old. Remember that there are always exceptions to the rules since the "C" clasp was also used later on in Europe so take every detail into account to come to your full conclusion. Look at the hinge and the clasp of a brooch, bracelet, necklace, etc.. Does it look like a clasp used today or does it seem a bit different to you? Compare new pieces to old pieces. Does the jewelry have a brass spring ring clasp from the 1930s or a shiny gold plate clasp? Are the findings on a piece consistent with the design of that era? Those small differences could answer your questions and drastically influence the value of a piece. The tube hinge was generally used until the 1890s where the safety catch clasp became popular in the Art Deco 1920s period. Over the years the appearance of the safety catch clasp has changed so it's good to recognize the old from the new. Many clasps on old jewelry such as pins broke in time so replacement ones were soldered onto the back. All better Jewelry is soldered at some place but if the piece has raised pads soldered to the back of the Brooch where the clasp is attached then it is a replacement clasp.

Another good clue to dating a piece and determining the value of Antique and Vintage Jewelry is to look at the metal content where there might be some underneath wear, usually in back where it would rub against the clothing. Genuine Gold and Silver, even if it has wear, will not show a base metal underneath since it continues all the way through. Many costume pieces from the nineteenth century and into the Art Deco period were made of gold and/or silver over base metals such as gold over brass, silver over brass, silver over copper, gold over copper, etc. That's one way of knowing the piece is at least 60 years old and more. During the war years of the 1940s there was a shortage of base metals where it affected the jewelry industry so sterling silver was substituted. If you see a marking such as "1/20 12K on Sterling" then 1/5 of the piece is 12K gold and is likely to be from 1942 to 1945. Vintage Bakelite which is a Polymeric Plastic invented by Leo Hendrik Baekeland in 1907, became popular in jewelry design during the hardships of World War II also. There are several tests in determining Authentic Antique and Vintage Bakelite Jewelry using Formula 409, Hot Water, Simichrome Polish and a Q-Tip. Still some Bakelite such as Black Bakelite may not test positive. Since Bakelite is either cast or molded it would not have a seam line anywhere and the workmanship should look hand carved and not be crudely executed as if a stamp was used. On Vintage Bakelite brooches, the clasp would be embedded into the piece.

Fine Jewelry containing Diamonds or Precious Stones such as Rubies, Emeralds and Sapphires are either bezel-set, inset or set with prongs and will always have open-backs for maximum brightness. Air bubbles seen in stones is a clue right off that the piece is glass. Marcasites which were substituted for diamonds as early as the 1700s, regained it's popularity in the 1920s and 1930s. A higher valued marcasite piece would have better workmanship where each marcasite would be set with tiny prongs or beads versus glued in ones and because of this the stones will stay in place longer. This is also true for Rhinestones in Vintage Costume Jewelry where prong set ones are valued higher than glued in ones.

These are just some of the many tips to knowing your Jewelry. It's so helpful to learn what to look for when buying Antique and Vintage Jewelry which also can be as much fun as wearing and collecting it! Knowledge is definitely Jewelry Golden!

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How to Buy Fine Diamond or Gemstone Jewelry?

Nothing more personal than our response to color. Color is the new Language of passion, and nothing captures it better than distinctively styled jewelry. Leave her speechless with our brilliant colorless and fancy colored diamond or bold brilliant gemstone jewelry styles.

When you buy even the finest jewelry, you are buying a manufactured item, no matter how handcrafted it is. The reasons begin with the metal, because precious metal used in jewelry is never pure.

Gold, platinum, and silver are all alloyed for various reasons. The greater the amount of the alloy, the less value the precious metal. For example, the price gold on the commodities market and the world gold market is based on 24 Karat or 0.9999 Gold. Thus, the value of gold in jewelry is worth only as much as the percentage of gold used. 22 Karat gold will have more gold than 18 Karat gold, and 18 Karat gold will have more gold than 14 Karat gold, but none has the amount of gold as pure 24 Karat gold. The same considerations hold true for silver and platinum.

The first reason why jewelry is not an investment, therefore, is that you are buying karat gold, not "pure gold," and gold is valuable simply because it is gold. Since the world market is based on "pure" gold, the gold in jewelry has less value, depending on the karatage. That value will increase, or decrease, with the price of gold, but will never equal the price of pure gold.

The manufactured metal is further manufactured in jewelry in design and workmanship, both of which add to the cost of the gold. If you buy a fine jewelry, regardless of whether you buy it from the person who made it or from a store (including online store) you are paying for design, workmanship, and exclusivity, all of which add to the price of the gold and may cost more than the gold. If you buy mass-manufactured jewelry, the cost of design and workmanship is spread out among all the pieces of jewelry of that design. You are also paying for increases in cost along the sales chain until the jewelry reaches you. The manufacturer, the wholesaler, and the jeweler all increase the actual original cost to allow for their overhead, costs, and for their profits.

The same consideration hold true for jewelry with gems. Jewelry with gems may even be a worse investment than plain gold jewelry. The price of gems has risen drastically, as have the prices of furs and cars, and just about everything else in recent years as well as the precious metals, but the value of gems is quirky, often depending on fashion and demand, among other factors.

Diamonds are one example. Prices of diamonds have risen, although the prices have escalated drastically only for certain diamonds. One reason for the rise in general is demand. The United States alone accounts for more than 50% of the world diamond jewelry market. Thanks to aggressive advertising campaign, that percentage has held true, regardless of how the market in other parts of world has increased. Thus, the price increases along with the number of people vying to buy diamonds, as soon as the market does not meet the demand.

Another reason is that the market is controlled by DeBeers, through its subsidiaries, DeBeers control sales of 85% of all diamonds from all over Africa, Russia, and elsewhere. Monopolistic as it is argument offered by DeBeers that keep even Russia in line is that diamonds are a luxury item, with an intrinsic value unmatched in any other such item, but the value can be maintained only by strict control. The strategy has worked successfully for every one in the diamond market except consumers.

Jewelry with colored stones is not as tightly controlled internationally as the diamond supply.

Buying jewelry, the first rule is to buy jewelry, with or without gems, because it appeals to you emotionally and you like and can afford it. Do not buy jewelry purely for the purpose of an investment. If the past inflation is any indication, you would have to keep the jewelry at least 6 - 10 years just to break even on the purchase price, not allowing for any profit. You may have to take a big loss if you need to sell in a hurry.

The article above can be used on your web site or newsletter. When it is published, may I request that you include my name and resource box (the bio, contact and copyright information) that follows the article. I would also appreciate if you could send me an email of notification along with a complimentary copy of the publication.

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Online Fine Jewelry Purchases Increasing

Fine Jewelry is Just a Click Away

With Americans spending over $50 billion each year on jewelry and watches, it's no wonder that online fine jewelry purchases are increasing by leaps and bounds. Instead of traipsing through malls in search of the perfect ear pins, belly rings, and necklaces, consumers can shop for fine jewelry from the comfort of their own homes.

When shopping for fine jewelry - whether you're looking for earrings, ear cuffs, necklaces, or body jewelry - it's important to have an understanding of the basic materials and stones that are used in the making of fine jewelry.

Materials:

Yellow Gold - Pure gold (24 kt. gold) is too soft to use in jewelry, so it's typically combined with silver to form a metal alloy consisting of 14 kt. gold.

White Gold - White gold is colorless, like silver, but won't ever tarnish, and is typically a combination of gold and nickel.

Sterling Silver - Like gold, fine silver is too soft for use in jewelry, so silver is combined with 7.5% of other metals (typically copper) to produce sterling silver.

Platinum - A beautiful silver-white color, platinum occurs as an alloy in nature. It's tarnish-resistant qualities and durability make it a favorite material for fine jewelry.

Gemstones:

Jewelers incorporate a wide variety of gemstones into fine jewelry. From diamonds to pearls, from rubies to sapphires, gemstones can add sparkle and personality to earrings, ear pins, and ear cuffs. Today, many jewelers use simulated gemstones, which offer the sparkle of the "real thing" at a fraction of the cost.

Birthstones:

Fine jewelry that incorporates birthstones is a perennial favorite, especially when given as a gift on the recipient's special day. According to Solisa (www.solisa.com), the premiere online destination for fine jewelry, the following gemstones and colors are associated with each birth month:

January: Garnet (dark red)

February: Amethyst (purple)

March: Aquamarine (pale blue)

April: Diamond (starlight)

May: Emerald (light green)

June: Pearl, White (pearlescent)

July: Ruby (red)

August: Peridot (pale green)

September: Sapphire, Blue (deep blue)

October: Opal (moonlight)

November: Citrine (yellow)

December: Topaz, Blue (sky blue)

Trends

Knowing the latest jewelry trends is always helpful when buying fine jewelry for yourself or as a gift. This season, celebrities are wearing ear pins and ear cuffs both on and off the red carpet. Solisa (www.solisa.com) has the largest selection of ear pins on the Web, and they can be worn with either pierced or unpierced ears. Whether make from gold or silver, ear cuffs add the extra touch needed to make you stand out from the crowd.

When selecting earrings or necklaces with gemstones, the key this season is to combine colors for maximum effect. Pair a deep blue with garnet, or purple with medium green. With Solisa's (www.solisa.com) color key, it's easy to shop for specific gemstone colors to complement your wardrobe.

Belly rings are also given the once-over this season, with gemstones being key. Change your belly ring to reflect your mood, and show off the toned tummy you worked so hard to develop!

Online Shopping

When shopping for fine jewelry online, it's important to find a reputable site. Solisa (www.solisa.com) is the leading online retailer for unique fine jewelry. With a huge selection and an easy-to-use online catalog, you'll find the latest jewelry fashion without the hassle of mall shopping. Be sure to visit them today.

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Antique Jewelry

If you are fond of vintage items, you don't have to depend entirely on your ancestors to acquire a few of these heirlooms. Heirloom-quality jewelry from the Victorian, Edwardian, art deco and other periods is now readily available. When you wish to gift a rare piece of jewelry to your beloved, choose a unique vintage item that she will preserve for the rest of her life. Antique jewelry, a term applied to jewelry over a hundred years old, is now a favorite with the prospective brides, too. With everything that is old now coming back into fashion, most brides walking down the aisle are adorning vintage jewelry with pride.

Among the jewelry pieces that you can pick up are antique engagement rings, studded necklaces, bracelets, brooches, crosses, pendants, lockets and other extraordinary pieces of timeless art and beauty.

These antique jewelry pieces come to you through antique jewelry auctions, fairs and sales that are frequented by the jewelers to bring you pieces of extraordinary charm and elegance. Some of the jewelers also specify the age of the antique jewelry on display. For instance, some may claim to keep pieces from 1900 to 1950 (Edwardian, art deco and retro jewelry), and some may have heirloom pieces that are at least two centuries old (late Georgian or Victorian jewelry)!

Shopping for antique jewelry has an added advantage. It acquaints you to the history and culture of the era to which it belongs. You would be interested to know how the fashion of wearing delicate dresses in the Georgian era favored the use of small, light jewelry. Pendants with miniature paintings of loved ones were also prevalent in the late-Georgian era. In a similar way, jewelry belonging to each era is a reflection of the changing fashions. So, with every piece of antique jewelry, you also buy memories of a long lost era.

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